The Roman house staged its own desert storm, sending models parading in a continual loop down dunes the color of a popular Italian side dish. “No, it’s not polenta. Don’t taste,” laughed Silvia Venturini Fendi about the yellow sand strewn everywhere at Fendi’s sprawling Milan headquarters.
Miuccia Prada had turned the clichés of an exotic holiday on their head, instead imagining something “dark and menacing,” as she put it backstage. Her premise, that a conflict-torn globe makes finding a carefree place in the sun ever more elusive, yielded a tour de force collection, and a show as captivating as a film…
Men’s creative director Italo Zucchelli has the blues: Multiple shades of it, from morning sky pale to Yves Klein intense, defined his terrific spring collection. It was graphic, athletic and slyly streetwise, a key trend on the Milan runways this season.
René Gruau’s illustrations and Terry O’Neill’s images of Sixties jet-setters inspired Jeremy Hackett’s collection, while shades of Frank Sinatra, Michael Caine and Sean Connery added even more personality. A 38-piece orchestra played Michael Nyman’s “Prospero’s Magic” asmodels showed off clothing that riffed on a privileged English lifestyle.