Savvy up-and-coming designers have started to use the pre-season collections as a time to launch their lines. Atto‘s Julien Dossena, who designs with Lion Blau, took advantage of Couture week’s light schedule to introduce his new ready-to-wear label to retailers and editors. He’s a promising new talent.
The Paris-based Dossena hails from Balenciaga, and his debut offering shares a sensibility with Nicolas Ghesquière. Dossena likes fabrics with a dry hand (spongy red wool jersey, marled gray wool gabardine from Japan, cotton knits with 1 or 2 percent stretch) and crisp, precise cuts. A slim-fitting three-button suit jacket with high armholes and narrow sleeves was belted high above the waist, and a sleeveless pop-over top was distinguished by its angular bib-like hemline. Both pieces had a mod, sixties-ish feel.